3 minutes read
A small town with big gems. Venture into this 0.65-square-mile British Columbia Island to admire the finest collection of the Kwakwaka’wakw Potlatch Ceremony. Be sure to complete your visit with nine additional activities to fully experience the city.
A pinch of history
- The region was inhabited by the Namgis First Nation.
- Named Ya’Lis (“spreading-leg beach”), the island was renamed by Europeans in the mid 19e after the British vessel MS Alert.
- Entrepreneur Spencer and Huson built a salmon saltery in 1870 and settled a local workforce.
- In the 1960s, the Guinness Book of World Records listed Albert Bay for “most cars per mile of road.” There were 143 vehicles and 4 miles (6.4km) of roads.
1 – U’mista Cultural Center
Built in 1980, the U’mista Cultural Center displays a large and beautiful Potlatch collection.

These artifacts have finally returned to the 1st Nation. Indeed, from 1884 to 1951, the federal law made Potlatch illegal. During the 1921 Potlatch raid, the Kwakwaka’wakw people were arrested, and more than 600 objects were confiscated.

These ceremonial objects – carved masks, coppers, and hats – are sacred. It depicts tradition, family dances, songs, and stories. It’s a must-see to learn about Potlatch, and the U’mista Cultural Center is the most incredible collection I have seen in Alaska and Canada.
Note: photo are forbidden in the main exhibition room

Did you know?
U’mista means “The return of something important.”

2 – Pay a tribute to the 1st Nation at the Nangis burial ground
Alert Bay Totem Poles tell the local story of the Kwakwaka’wakw families. The wooden totem pole on the grounds celebrates diseased people. They are represented by mythical and traditional animal figures. It includes the Raven, Eagle, Grizzly Bear, and Killer Whale.

When a totem falls, it’s the natural cycle of life. It means the person’s spirit has left. That’s why many of the totems remain on the ground to decompose.



Did you know?
Totems are erected during Potlatch

3 – Stop by Alert Bay Visitor Center, the Library and Museum
Alert Bay Visitor Center is a two-room office including many brochures and maps to explore the region. There is also an exhibit from local artist Chris Nancarrow. He painted a year of life along Front Street and First Street.

Next door, enter the library to access a large collection of historic books and photography. In addition, a specific room is dedicated to artifacts from the 1st Nation in the early 20th century.



4 – Learn more about Namgis Ancestors
As you stroll the waterfront from the visitor center to the U’mista Cultural Center, you will see five awakwas (structures). Each of them highlights one of the Na’mima (clan) and provides a short story.
- Sisant’le, the “Sunbeam Tribe,” descended from the swan and sun,
- Gigal’gam, ‘The First Ones,” descended from the thunderbird and Xwa’xwas,
- T’sit’salwalagame, “The Famous One,” descended from Namxelagayu, a sea monster who transformed the first man,
- T’lat’la’lamin, “The Supporter,” descended from the younger brother of the thunderbird.




5 – Discover traditions at ‘Namgis Traditional Big House
Originally built in 1966, this building is modeled on the traditional Kwakwaka’wakw home. It’s mainly used for Potlatches.

6 – See the World’s tallest Totem Pole
Completed in the late 60’s by chief carver Jimmy Dick, the 173 feet tall totem pole is the tallest in the world. The carved figures represent the tribes of the Kwakwaka.

6 – Glance at law enforcement’s history
Built in 1923 by the BC Provincial residence, this building housed simultaneously a police station, a jail, a courthouse, and police officers’ quarters. It operated until the 1990s. Today, it’s a private residence.

Fun fact: the jail bars are still on the windows.
7 – Vessels Walk of Fame at Alert Bay Harbor
As you approach Alert Bay Harbor, check out the Walk of Fame. It honors historic vessels and crews who contributed to Albert Bay’s History.


During its heyday, there were more than 1,000 fishing boats registered in the marina.



8 – Find God at Christ Church
Saltery founders Spencer and Huson convinced Reverend James Hall to move his mission from Fort Rupert to Alert Bay. He built the current church and held the 1st mass in both English and Kwak’wala in December 1892.

The church is still in operation today.

9 – The fishing historical net loft
Initially, the Anglo-British Columbia Packing (A.B.C.) Packing company owned and operated this net loft building (owned today by the ‘Namgis 1st nation). Dozens of fishermen made, stored, and mended nets. Some nets were 1,200 feet long.

10 – Alert Bay Ecological Park
Alert Bay Ecological Park is a swamp surrounded by naked trees. It’s an ideal perch for birds, especially bald eagles, and ravens. Explore this ecological environment by hiking the wooden boardwalk.

11 – Bonus: a few more pictures to end this virtual visit 😉














Based on my visit on August 2023
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Tips:
- Location: Alert Bay, BC, Canada
- More information is available at http://www.alertbay.ca/about-alert-bay
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